Wednesday, December 28, 2016

Bottle of white, bottle of red, perhaps a bottle of rose instead

What makes a wine the best has very much to do with the moment you choose to open the bottle. It’s not simply a question of quality, although that’s crucial. It’s a combination of the occasion, the people with whom you share it, the food you eat and the context. Ultimately, what counts are the memories. Wine brings families and friends together, it can sparkle discussions, put a smile on people’s faces, bring back memories and something to look forward to.

Throughout all these year’s wine played a major part in our family, professionally and for sure in our personal lives. Collectively we have an array of memories around wine. Starting by Omy in the Begoniastraat: it was incomprehensible to have Moules Frites without a crispy Muscadet or a nice rouge with een biefstukje. Friday afternoons in Mamaroneck were celebrated with Kendall Jacksons private reserve chardonnay, a visit chez Isaac and Alena started always with Champagne and of course oncle Ad and Rinus were partners with me on our wine tours in France, and I am very proud that this tradition was replicated with Jorrit and Paul. The Dikkers brought us to Provence which lead to Domaine Trevaillon, Mas de la Dame and Mas du Gourgognier. In Austria we discovered Veltliner and Blauw Zweigelt and the traditional gluhweins or gipfel wasser in the valleys and on the mountain tops wherever we skied. Inge’s special gluhwein experience in Badgastein became famous. On our tours in Italy we discovered Chianti and some of the bigger Tuscans. Also on our Family visits in Madrid and Lisboa we sampled the local wines a volunte. In the 90ies during Rothschild winery acquisitions trips in Argentina I discovered Mendoza’s Malbec’s then working in Latin America and living in Rio these wines became favorites and earned a very respectable place.

There were many occasions of wine events with our “extended New York family”, from the Gewurtztraminer in the Poconos, a Magnum Chateau Latour for 2 at Sparks, the numerous Mouton Cadet and Rothschild’s events and our boy’s night out at Steve’s “Il Cigno” with Zachys, Davidoff and fantastic Italians topped by the massive Tignanello.

This year’s Christmas meal is built around a wine journey.
We start about 100 KM East of Paris in the Champagne region with Henriot, a respectable producer based in Reims. Next is Chablis in le Bourgogne we enjoyed this wine already in June at Charlotte and Jorrits “feestje” and is made by our Friend Frederic Prain, by far the funniest Frenchmen we ever met, the Figaro calls him an “ermite excentrique”. He is a devoted wine maker, story teller, Citroenist and he owns 13,5 hectares and has listings in some really good restaurants. His wines are a real discovery and very friendly priced. We move a bit further South/East to Savigny les Beaunes, we tasted this wine together with Mr et Mme Girard at Le Foire des Vignerons Independent in Porte Champeret. From Bourgogne we travel to Lucca in Italy. Fabbrica di San Martino, a vino rosso from the Colline Lucchesi. A bio wine made by Giuseppe Ferrua, he is married with Giovanna Tronci who owns this beautiful agroturismo. Next stop Australia with Annie’s Lane, a promising and respectable Chiraz from Clare Valley. Over the years I developed an appreciation for these bold Aussies. From Australia we fly to the U.S. Oregon with Formaglini Pinot Noir. This wine is made by my colleague and friend David Delancellotti. David bought a vineyard about 10 years ago and the wines he produces are reflecting his Italian heritage and passion. It’s a small production and has nice distribution in upscale restaurants in a few states. The 2013 vintage received recently a 93 score in the Wine Spectator! We finish our tour in Paulliac with the maison where it actually all started for me: Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a premiere grands crus classe. Vintage 1990, it’s maybe
not a remarkable vintage but heh…it’s still Mouton. The label was designed by Francis Bacon. What an experience that was and the wine is still the Rolls Royce in the industry!

The Bordeaux Wine Official Classification of 1855 was based entirely on recent market prices for a vineyard's wines, with one exception: Château Mouton Rothschild. Despite the market prices for their vineyard's wines equaling that of Château Lafite Rothschild, Château Mouton Rothschild was excluded from First Great Growth status, an act that Baron Philippe de Rothschild referred to as "the monstrous injustice". It is widely believed that the exception was made because the vineyard had recently been purchased by an Englishman and was no longer in French ownership. In 1973, Mouton was elevated to "first growth" status after decades of intense lobbying by Baron Philippe, the only change in the original 1855 classification This prompted to Premier je suis, Second je fus, Mouton ne change. ("First, I am. Second, I used to be. Mouton does not change.")



Interest in wine can be infectious Jorrit was baptized at Mouton in 1986 and Paul in Chablis and Gigondas both demonstrated a deep interest ever since. Dagmar with the “5 girls and a baby” became super enthusiastic about Domain Roche and reds and whites are flowing freely at Family dishes in the Jeker. C’est excellente.



OUR WINE JOURNEY
THIS YEARS WINE LINE UP


Wine Name Region Producer Cepage Vintage Notes
Bubbles Henriot Brut Souverain Champagne Maison Henriot Pinot Noir 51% Chardonnay 49% Non vintage

White Domaine d’ Elise Chablis Frederic Prain Chardonnay 2014

Savigny-Les-Beaune Bourgogne Jean-Jacques Girard Chardonnay 2014

Red Fabricca di San Martino Lucca Fabricca di San Martino. Tronci Familia Sangiovese, Cillegiolo, Canaiolo, Malvasia nera, Aleatico 2012

Annie’s Lane Clare Valley, Australia Annie’s Lane Shiraz 2015

Formaglini, La Quercia Oregon, USA Formaglini Vinyards Pinot Noir 2013

Chateau Mouton Rothschild Bordeaux Paulliac Baron Philippe de Rothschild Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot 1990

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