What makes a wine
the best has very much to do with the moment you choose to open the
bottle. It’s not simply a question of quality, although that’s
crucial. It’s a combination of the occasion, the people with whom
you share it, the food you eat and the context. Ultimately, what
counts are the memories. Wine brings families and friends
together, it can sparkle discussions, put a smile on people’s
faces, bring back memories and something to look forward to.
There were many occasions of wine
events with our “extended New York family”, from the
Gewurtztraminer in the Poconos, a Magnum Chateau Latour for 2 at
Sparks, the numerous Mouton Cadet and Rothschild’s events and our
boy’s night out at Steve’s “Il Cigno” with Zachys, Davidoff
and fantastic Italians topped by the massive Tignanello.
This year’s Christmas meal is
built around a wine journey.
We start about 100 KM East of Paris in
the Champagne region with Henriot, a respectable producer based in
Reims. Next is Chablis in le Bourgogne we enjoyed this wine already
in June at Charlotte and Jorrits “feestje” and is made by our
Friend Frederic Prain, by far the funniest Frenchmen we ever met,
the Figaro calls him an “ermite excentrique”. He is a devoted
wine maker, story teller, Citroenist and he owns 13,5 hectares and
has listings in some really good restaurants. His wines are a real
discovery and very friendly priced. We move a bit further South/East
to Savigny les Beaunes, we tasted this wine together with Mr et Mme
Girard at Le Foire des Vignerons Independent in Porte Champeret.
From Bourgogne we travel to Lucca in Italy. Fabbrica di San Martino,
a vino rosso from the Colline Lucchesi. A bio wine made by Giuseppe
Ferrua, he is married with Giovanna Tronci who owns this beautiful
agroturismo. Next stop Australia with Annie’s Lane, a promising
and respectable Chiraz from Clare Valley. Over the years I developed
an appreciation for these bold Aussies. From Australia we fly to the
U.S. Oregon with Formaglini Pinot Noir. This wine is made by my
colleague and friend David Delancellotti. David bought a vineyard
about 10 years ago and the wines he produces are reflecting his
Italian heritage and passion. It’s a small production and has nice
distribution in upscale restaurants in a few states. The 2013
vintage received recently a 93 score in the Wine Spectator! We
finish our tour in Paulliac with the maison where it actually all
started for me: Chateau Mouton Rothschild, a premiere grands crus
classe. Vintage 1990, it’s maybe
not a remarkable vintage but heh…it’s
still Mouton. The label was designed by Francis Bacon. What an
experience that was and the wine is still the Rolls Royce in the
industry!
The
Bordeaux
Wine Official Classification of 1855
was based entirely on recent market prices for a vineyard's wines,
with one exception: Château Mouton Rothschild. Despite the market
prices for their vineyard's wines equaling that of Château
Lafite Rothschild,
Château Mouton Rothschild was excluded from First
Great Growth
status, an act that Baron
Philippe de Rothschild
referred to as "the monstrous injustice". It is widely
believed
that
the exception was made because the vineyard had recently been
purchased by an Englishman and was no longer in French ownership. In
1973, Mouton was elevated to "first
growth"
status after decades of intense lobbying by Baron Philippe, the only
change in the original 1855 classification This prompted to Premier
je suis, Second je fus, Mouton ne change.
("First, I am. Second, I used to be. Mouton does not change.")
Interest in wine can be infectious
Jorrit was baptized at Mouton in 1986 and Paul in Chablis and
Gigondas both demonstrated a deep interest ever since. Dagmar with
the “5 girls and a baby” became super enthusiastic about Domain
Roche and reds and whites are flowing freely at Family dishes in the
Jeker. C’est excellente.
OUR WINE JOURNEY
THIS YEARS WINE LINE UP
| Wine Name | Region | Producer | Cepage | Vintage | Notes | |
| Bubbles | Henriot Brut Souverain | Champagne | Maison Henriot | Pinot Noir 51% Chardonnay 49% | Non vintage | |
| White | Domaine d’ Elise | Chablis | Frederic Prain | Chardonnay | 2014 | |
| Savigny-Les-Beaune | Bourgogne | Jean-Jacques Girard | Chardonnay | 2014 | ||
| Red | Fabricca di San Martino | Lucca | Fabricca di San Martino. Tronci Familia | Sangiovese, Cillegiolo, Canaiolo, Malvasia nera, Aleatico | 2012 | |
| Annie’s Lane | Clare Valley, Australia | Annie’s Lane | Shiraz | 2015 | ||
| Formaglini, La Quercia | Oregon, USA | Formaglini Vinyards | Pinot Noir | 2013 | ||
| Chateau Mouton Rothschild | Bordeaux Paulliac | Baron Philippe de Rothschild | Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot | 1990 |
NOTES:
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